Trilliants, kites, and trapezoids are vintage cuts that have lately gained popularity in bridal jewellery due to their uniqueness.
Oval, pear, and square-cut stones are plain enough, but what about trilliant, trapezoid, or tapering baguette cuts? These are only three of the lesser-known treatments used on stones by designers trying to elevate and distinguish their work.
High jewellery collections presented this summer offered a plethora of classic forms. But we also witnessed a resurrection of the vintage marquise, an 18th-century cut with a stunning oval form and less recognised geometric cuts that mimic the diamond’s intrinsic octahedral structure. One striking example is one of Cartier’s Beautés du Monde series high jewellery cocktail rings. Karet has two triangular-shaped diamonds that are portrait-cut, producing thin, flat stones, and are set in platinum.
Meanwhile, Anna Hu’s gorgeous Metamorphosis bracelet has the newer trapezoid design as well as brown marquise diamonds.
An elongated shield-cut gives elegance to a pair of Boghossian diamond drop earrings, set beside their proprietary “flame” cut, which is based on the I in their emblem.
Trilliants, triangles softened by convex curves along each side, and kites, similarly triangular with two corners lopped off, are two more quirky geometric forms making the cut. These are ancient cuts that have lately become fashionable in bridal jewellery due of their uniqueness.
Another intriguing form for high jewellery, wedding and cocktail rings is the hexagon. The Iwana necklace, also from the Beautés du Monde line, contains three stunning hexagonal-shaped cabochon emeralds surrounded by a slew of smaller diamonds.
Taille Impératrice is a Chaumet cut that underpins the Bee My Love series. It has 88 facets that allow the diamond to collect more light and reflect it back, increasing the stone’s brilliance. This precise cut may be seen in the collection’s gold bangles and earrings.
Messika’s Creole earrings contain a variety of coloured diamonds cut in pear, cushion, and shield shapes that are balanced within the hoops.
Feng J, who debuted her new high jewellery line at the Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris in 2022, takes a distinct approach to gem cutting.
Her unique “floating setting” employs slivers of coloured gemstones in organic rather than usually symmetrically faceted cuts, which she creates in collaboration with her lapidarist. These designs are about a palette of delicate transparent tints, akin to those used by an artist to produce a work of art, rather than carat weight and brightness.
“The aesthetically unique cutting of double-rose-cut gemstones allows me to explore with colour, light, and saturation to produce ‘painterly’ type artworks,” she stated.
Designers like Feng J are sparking a new respect for the artistry that goes into fine jewellery by adapting and playing with cutting, light, and colour in these inventive eye-catching ways.
Cartier is a French luxury goods company that creates and sells high-end watches and jewellery. Few fashion and jewellery design firms in the world have achieved the status of Cartier. In truth, Cartier is considered as one of the world’s most prestigious jewellery designers; nonetheless, the company’s roots are primarily in the craft of watchmaking rather than jewellery.
At Truoosh, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. All product details reflect the price and availability at the time of publication. If you buy something we link to on our site, Truoosh may earn commission.
