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Cartier And Chaumet Are Venturing Out Beyond Classic Gem Cuts

Gem-cutting approaches, particularly for diamonds, are being reinvented as jewellers seek new ways to add artistic interest to their pieces.

The shape of a diamond has become more popular in high-end jewellery. The shape is similar to the shape of an old diamond, but it's not always symmetrically cut. The shapes of these shapes are being used to make jewellery more interesting. The cut is often more subtle than the ones used in modern art.


Trilliants, kites, and trapezoids are vintage cuts that have lately gained popularity in bridal jewellery due to their uniqueness.
Oval, pear, and square-cut stones are plain enough, but what about trilliant, trapezoid, or tapering baguette cuts? These are only three of the lesser-known treatments used on stones by designers trying to elevate and distinguish their work.

High jewellery collections presented this summer offered a plethora of classic forms. But we also witnessed a resurrection of the vintage marquise, an 18th-century cut with a stunning oval form and less recognised geometric cuts that mimic the diamond’s intrinsic octahedral structure. One striking example is one of Cartier’s Beautés du Monde series high jewellery cocktail rings. Karet has two triangular-shaped diamonds that are portrait-cut, producing thin, flat stones, and are set in platinum.


Cartier And Chaumet

Meanwhile, Anna Hu’s gorgeous Metamorphosis bracelet has the newer trapezoid design as well as brown marquise diamonds.

An elongated shield-cut gives elegance to a pair of Boghossian diamond drop earrings, set beside their proprietary “flame” cut, which is based on the I in their emblem.
Trilliants, triangles softened by convex curves along each side, and kites, similarly triangular with two corners lopped off, are two more quirky geometric forms making the cut. These are ancient cuts that have lately become fashionable in bridal jewellery due of their uniqueness.

Another intriguing form for high jewellery, wedding and cocktail rings is the hexagon. The Iwana necklace, also from the Beautés du Monde line, contains three stunning hexagonal-shaped cabochon emeralds surrounded by a slew of smaller diamonds.
Taille Impératrice is a Chaumet cut that underpins the Bee My Love series. It has 88 facets that allow the diamond to collect more light and reflect it back, increasing the stone’s brilliance. This precise cut may be seen in the collection’s gold bangles and earrings.

Messika’s Creole earrings contain a variety of coloured diamonds cut in pear, cushion, and shield shapes that are balanced within the hoops.
Feng J, who debuted her new high jewellery line at the Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris in 2022, takes a distinct approach to gem cutting.
Her unique “floating setting” employs slivers of coloured gemstones in organic rather than usually symmetrically faceted cuts, which she creates in collaboration with her lapidarist. These designs are about a palette of delicate transparent tints, akin to those used by an artist to produce a work of art, rather than carat weight and brightness.

“The aesthetically unique cutting of double-rose-cut gemstones allows me to explore with colour, light, and saturation to produce ‘painterly’ type artworks,” she stated.
Designers like Feng J are sparking a new respect for the artistry that goes into fine jewellery by adapting and playing with cutting, light, and colour in these inventive eye-catching ways.


Cartier is a French luxury goods company that creates and sells high-end watches and jewellery. Few fashion and jewellery design firms in the world have achieved the status of Cartier. In truth, Cartier is considered as one of the world’s most prestigious jewellery designers; nonetheless, the company’s roots are primarily in the craft of watchmaking rather than jewellery.

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Billionaire Laurence Graff paid a record-breaking $46.1 million for a magnificent vivid pink diamond weighing 24.78 carats. Originally owned by his competitor Harry Winston, it now carries graff’s name and is a part of the legendary collection of rare diamonds.

We usually advise brilliant round diamonds with a cut grade of very good, ideal, or super ideal for engagement rings (also known as hearts and arrows). A high cut grade maximises a diamond’s beauty for a given carat weight.


It’s crucial to have a concept of what you might prefer before starting your search because it will enable you to focus on fewer of the many engagement ring possibilities that are now available. Also, when you initially start browsing, it helps to have a few distinct design concepts and the overall budget because the variety can be overwhelming.

Here are Engagement Ring Trends 2023:

1. Modern Art-Deco
2. Colored Stones
3. Lab-Grown Diamonds
4. East-West Settings
5. Multiple Large Stones

The traditional round diamond form, which is the most common, may come to mind when you think of diamonds. But if you want something different, a tonne of alternative forms may be found to suit your unique taste and style. Each diamond shape has its own fire and brilliance because they are cut to different standards, altering how they reflect light.

The most popular kinds of diamonds are listed below:

1. Round Brilliant Cut Diamonds
2. Princess-Cut Diamonds
3. Marquise-Cut Diamonds
4. Cushion-Cut Diamonds
5. Emerald-Cut Diamonds
6. Radiant-Cut Diamonds
7. Pear-Shaped Diamonds
8. Oval Diamonds
9. Asscher-Cut Diamonds